Vienna Lager Recipe and Tasting

Vienna Lager

Homebrewed Vienna Lager

What qualities would you want in a “desert island beer”? Personally, I’d want something with low enough alcohol to consume in quantity, something relatively dry with some malt intrigue, and something balanced; in other words, a Vienna Lager.

The Vienna Lager is a bit of an enigma. The classic Continental examples are pretty much extinct. I have yet to find a European version that matches what I imagine a classic Vienna Lager to be. Immigration of Austrian brewers to Mexico in the late 1800’s brought the style to the New World, creating the distant relatives of the modern beers we see imported today. Common examples like Dos Equis Amber and Negra Modelo (which are tasty in their own right), are adjunct laden, sweeter versions of their Austrian forefather’s beer. The best examples today come from American craft brewers. Places like Chuckanut Brewing and Devil’s Backbone make my favorites and are perennial award winners at the GABF. These incredible all-malt examples have a slight sweetness and complex, yet not overbearing malt character, finishing slightly off-dry. This is what I’ve tried to emulate; using a recipe that takes a similar approach as Brewing Classic Styles, blending the trifecta of Pilsner, Munich, and Vienna malts. I personally don’t feel like crystal malts have much place in a good Vienna Lager; perhaps a touch for head retention. If you’re at NHC 2013 in Philly, come by the NYC Homebrewers Guild booth during Club Night where I’ll have this beer flowing.

Recipe

Size: 3.25 gal
Efficiency: 67%
Attenuation: 72%

Original Gravity: 1.050
Terminal Gravity: 1.014
Color: 14.23
Alcohol: 4.7%
Bitterness: 24.8

Ingredients:
2.625 lb (39.3%) Vienna Malt – added during mash
1.25 lb (18.7%) Pilsner Malt – added during mash
2.625 lb (39.3%) Munich TYPE II – added during mash
1 oz (0.9%) Carafa® TYPE II – added during mash
2 oz (1.9%) Melanoidin Malt – added during mash
1 oz (100.0%) Hallertauer Hersbrucker (4.3%) – added during boil, boiled 60 m
0.5 ea Whirlfloc Tablets (Irish moss) – added during boil, boiled 15 m
0.5 tsp Wyeast Nutrient – added during boil, boiled 10 m
1 ea WYeast 2308 Munich Lager™

Schedule:
00:03:00 Dough In – Liquor: 5.6 gal; Strike: 159.87 °F; Target: 155 °F
01:03:00 Saccarification Rest – Rest: 60 m; Final: 155.0 °F
01:13:38 Mash Out – Heat: 10.6 m; Target: 168.0 °F
01:18:38 Transfer to Kettle – Volume: 6.04 gal; Final: 168.0 °F
(No Sparge)

Notes:
Final Volume into Fermenter: 2.75 Gallons
Yeast Required: 196 billion (per Mr. Malty)
Yeast Production Date: 3/13/13
Yeast Starter: 1.6L @ 1.040 on stir plate (per Mr. Malty) = 6.5 oz. DME

Fermentation:
1. Chill to 44* F and keep at 48* F until activity slows (1 week+).
2. Raise to 58* F for diacetyl rest 24 hours .
3. Drop temperature 2 * / day until at 34 * F.
4. Rack to corny keg.
5. Lager 4-6 weeks

Tasting Notes:

Judged as a BJCP category 3A Vienna Lager.

Aroma (11/12)
Subtlety complex toasted malt character with some biscuit and almost sourdough-like bread qualities. There is a hint of sweetness on the nose. Just a whisper of sulfur reminds you you’re drinking a lager. No esters, alcohol, hops, or diacetyl. Extremely clean.

Appearance (2/3)
Brilliant rich copper color with a white head. A little more carbonation would improve the initial head, but it could use better persistence.

Flavor (16/20)
Beautiful malt character that is toasty and crisp without being caramel-laden or too rich. There is a hint of graininess that seems to be coming from a pilsner malt. The malt is crisp and balanced. There is no hop flavor, but their presence is felt in a bitterness that is medium-low with enough intensity to keep the beer crisp while allowing a lingering malt sweetness to persist through the finish.

Mouthfeel (3/5)
This beer is slightly undercarbonated leaving it with a somewhat full mouthfeel. Beer finishes relatively dry and perfectly to style. More carbonation would help make this an even more drinkable beer.

Overall Impression (9/10)
This is one of my favorite beers to brew and consume. Creating a clean, low-alcohol lager is a well-rewarded challenge. There is some nice malt complexity that is clean and crisp making it easy to both drink in quantity while also stimulating your palate. It is a beer that can you can dissect the flavors and aromas of one-by-one, or simply slam a boot of. Next time I brew, I’ll likely add some dextrin malt to improve the head persistence, slightly bump up the percentage of Vienna malt (while lessening the Munich II), and go back to my favorite lager yeast (WLP833, the Ayinger strain) which seems to attenuate a little bit better.

Total: (41/50) Excellent

Critical Path Brewing

When not brewing, I work as an architect. While there is seemingly little cross-over between the two, both are analogous in their diverse blend of science and art. One thing my day job has brought to my brewday is the concept used in construction of critical path scheduling. While not the sexiest topic to talk about, it has given structure and efficiency to my brewdays.

My Brewday Schedule - Critical Path Items are connected in the schedule using bold vertical lines. Non-critical tasks are taken care of while critical items are taking place.

My Brewday Schedule – Critical paths are connected in the schedule using bold vertical lines. Non-critical tasks are taken care of while critical paths are taking place.

In a nut shell, critical path scheduling dictates that your overall project (brewday) can never take less time than the sum of all critical paths (tasks) within the overall schedule. If your goal is to shorten your overall project, you must look at ways to shorten your critical paths. A critical path is essentially any task which must be completed before other critical paths can begin. In brewing, a common critical path would be mashing. You can’t start boiling (another critical path) until the critical path of mashing is complete. By looking at your brewday in this manner, it illustrates all of the other non-critical path items (cleaning, prepping items, putting away items, etc.) that can occur while critical path items are being completed. This methodology exposes areas of unused time during the brewday and allows you to be efficient with your time and decrease the time required to complete a brewday.

Geeky, yes, but it works. If you really want to geek out, you can download my Excel spreadsheet, here.

Back in the Brew House Again

When I first got into brewing, I started small and simple. Very little process control was in place, the equipment was basic and easy to use, and the beer turned out… okay. As time went on, my brewery grew organically to include more and more pieces of specialized equipment whose purposes varied, but generally involved making brewdays easier or giving me a greater degree of control over the process. This is a pretty typical evolution that homebrewers go through, and something that offers the opportunity for your brewhouse to grow in sync with your brewing skills.

After relocating to Brooklyn, I took the opposite approach. Instead of organic growth, I preplanned my system on paper, acquired my parts, and then built-out the brewery over the course of several evenings. This was an exciting and daunting task; not something I’d recommend for someone just learning how to brew.

Acquisition of Parts and Build-Out

For what seemed like weeks, strange and wonderful pieces of stainless steel began arriving at my apartment. Thanks to the folks from places like Bargain Fittings, More Beer, and Williams Brewing, finding the parts I needed was fairly easy. The most difficult item to track down was a thick walled stainless steel kettle with a multi layered bottom in a 5-gallon format. Unfortunately, most 5-gallon kettles are designed for entry level or partial boil extract brewers. I wanted something sturdy that would provide better heat dispersion and retention. I ended up with a great little kettle from Midwest Brewing that fit the bill perfectly.

The actual build-out went simply enough. It was important to diagrammatically layout how all the components were fitted out in order to procure the right fittings, but also have a pseudo installation manual for building. From there, piecing together the components was rather easy and happened quickly. The most difficult task was using a step-bit to place holes into my thick walled kettle. My cordless drill was barely up to the task. It took multiple trials and battery charges, but in the end I successfully placed two holes into my kettle’s walls. Lubricant is your friend when drilling (yes, I said that) and keeps the bit cool while cutting through the kettle walls.

The Build-Out:

Ready to be assembled.

GE water filter ready to be assembled. There isn’t much chlorine in NYC water, but the filter is a relatively easy way to provide some piece of mind.

GE water filter with quick disconnects allows me to quickly fill my kettle with filtered water. Thread onto kitchen faucet.

Quick disconnects allow me to quickly fill my kettle with filtered water. The plastic quick disconnect inlet snaps onto a hose with a threaded adapter for my kitchen faucet. The same hose is used later in the process to connect to the inlet on my my plate chiller. The barbed outlet connects to a hose used to fill my mashtun with strike water.

42 quart Polarware mashtun with stainless steel false bottom, 3-peice ball valve with quick disconnect, and thermometer.

42 quart Polarware mashtun with stainless steel false bottom, 3-piece ball valve with quick disconnect, and thermometer. Strike water is directly fired in the mashtun.

My 5-gallon kettle was installed with an outlet and tangential inlet for whirlpool purposes. All equipment is fitted out with male stainless steel quick disconnects. All hoses are fitted with female stainless quick disconnects. This allows for maximum flexibility when chaining together equipment.

My 5-gallon kettle was installed with an outlet and tangential inlet for whirlpool purposes. Both bulkheads are fitted with 3-piece ball valves allowing for complete disassembly and cleaning. All equipment is fitted out with male stainless steel quick disconnects. All hoses are fitted with female stainless quick disconnects. This allows for maximum flexibility when chaining together equipment. The kettle screen on the outlet valve was a flawed design on my part and has since been removed due to excessive clogging. I know use a simple 90 degree elbow for the pickup and use hop bags to contain most hop material.

Individual fittings ready to go together.

Blichmann Therminator with individual fittings laid out and ready to go together.

Fitted out with plastic quick disconnects on the water side and stainless quick disconnects on the wort side. I iniatially installed an inline O2 stone which has since been removed due to excessive foaming and concerns about sanitation.

Fitted out with plastic quick disconnects on the water side and stainless quick disconnects on the wort side. I initially installed an inline O2 stone which has since been removed due to excessive foaming and concerns about sanitation.

March Pump and fittings. I've installed the output side of the pump with two circuits. One can go straight back to the kettle for whirlpooling. The other circuit goes to the plate chiller and back to the kettle.

March Pump and fittings. I’ve installed the output side of the pump with two circuits for hot liquid. One can go straight back to the kettle for whirlpooling. The other circuit goes to the plate chiller and on to the fermenter. An inline thermometer on the plate chiller outlet tells me the temperature of wort heading to my fermenter.

Building The Pour Report’s Brooklyn Brewery – Pre Design

Seven months have passed since I moved cross country to Brooklyn. Life has a way of getting in the way of hobbies and my new brewery build was shifted to the back burner. Luckily, things are looking up. New equipment has been ordered and my first Brooklyn batch is only a couple weeks out.

Home brewery design has been on my mind a lot. Sizing components, designing wort transfer processes, handling the logistics of boiling on a puny stove and thinking about the items I’d change from my original brewery have been integral to my new brewery’s design. Among things that I wanted to implement in the new design:

  1. Pump transfers of liquid. No more lifting heavy (and hot) vessels.
  2. Use a plate chiller to increase cooling efficiency. Plumb vessels and pump to allow circulation back into kettle post-chill in order to utilize a whirlpool and minimize cold break from getting into the fermenter. It doesn’t appear many people are doing this, and I may abandon the process it if it proves to have little benefit.
  3. Create a tangential inlet into the kettle to allow for effective whirlpools.
  4. Use stainless steel quick disconnects throughout — because they’re cool.
  5. Plan for easy future integration of a RIMS tube w/ PID controller.
  6. Plan for easy future integration of a hop back.
  7. Build the brewery around the smaller volumes that fit the type of brewer I am.
  8. Use an electric heat element to jump start boils. Don’t electrocute myself.

Paramount to my brewery’s design is the volume of the various vessels. It is important to appropriately size my new brewery for the typical volumes and specific gravities I intend to use it for. By analyzing my own personal brewing interests, I’ve come up with the following typical brew lengths which can be used to size my equipment.

Typical Brew Lengths

  1. The Daily Drinker – 3 gallons (post boil) up to 1.080 original gravity.
    Easily packaged in a 3 gallon corny keg and served on draft. Typical brew length.
  2. Experimental Split Batches – 2.5 gallons (post boil) up to 1.120 original gravity.
    The perfect volume for experimentation. Easily split into secondary 1 gallon glass vessels for different treatments. Capable of producing very high gravity wort.
  3. Recipe Development Batches – 1.5 gallons (post boil) up to 1.120 original gravity.
    I get most of my enjoyment from the brewing process and learning about the implications recipe and process design have on the final batch. This batch size and gravity allows for frequent brewdays and flexibility.

Vessel Sizing

The vessels I’ve put into my brewery are designed around the gravity and volume of the typical brew lengths. Of the above scenarios, the ‘Experimental Split Batches’ has the highest gravity demands and thus dictates the mash tun sizing. The calculations showing the mash tun size requirements are below.

Constants Used for Calculations
70% efficiency (batch sparge)
60% efficiency (no sparge)

Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt. / pound water (batch sparge)
Mash Thickness: 2.25 qt. / pound water (no sparge)

35 Gravity Units per Pound of Malt
1 lb grain = 0.32 quarts (volume)
0.15 gallon / pound (grain water absorption)

Sizing Calculations

Experimental Split Batches:
2.5 Gallons @ 1.120 Original Gravity

2.5 x 120 = 300 Gravity Units

Mash Volume Calculation (Batch Sparge):
300 GUs  / 35 PPG / 0.7 (efficiency) = 12.24 lbs grain = 3.92 qt. = 0.98 gallons
3.825 gallons Strike Water @ 1.25 qt/lb

Total mash volume: 4.8 gallons

Mash Volume Calculation (No Sparge):
300 GUs  / 35 PPG / 0.6 (efficiency) = 14.28 lbs grain = 4.57 qt. = 1.14 gallons
8.03 gallons Strike Water @ 2.25 qt/lb

Total mash volume: 9.17 gallons
Kettle volume = 8.03 (strike volume) – 2.14 (grain absorption) – 0.5 (dead space) = 5.39 gallons

Mash Tun Size

Of the brew length typologies above, the ‘Experimental Split Batch’ (batch sparge) requires the largest volume mash tun (9.17 gallons). At the last NHC I won a 42 quart Polar Ware stainless steel kettle which should work well as a mash tun once it is insulated. It is stainless steel which will allows me to heat my strike water directly in the mashtun, and possibly do some direct fired mashes with the aid of a pump and stirring action. This is a large mash tun and will likely be problematic for extremely small batches. My plan is to design my hot liquor tank with valves, a false bottom, and insulation so that it may be used as an alternative mash tun for small batches.

Hot Liquor Tank Size

Strike water will be directly heated in the mashtun. When batch sparging, a separate 3-gallon vessel will be used to heat sparge water.

Kettle Size

My maximum batch size is 3 gallons. If these batches start with 3.5-4 gallons of volume  pre-boil, I should be able to use a 5-gallon boil kettle. For batches requiring very high gravities, I will likely run off more wort than can fit in this kettle and boil for long periods. In this case, I will likely split the boil into multiple vessels.

For my next post, I’ll photograph the brewery’s test run and breakdown the parts and processes designed into the brewery. In the meantime, check out the sketches of the brewery’s main components used to determine how everything connects and works together.

42 Quart Stainless Steel Mashtun. Features SS false bottom, ported thermometer, and SS quick disconnects.

Mash: 42 quart stainless steel mash tun. Features SS false bottom, ported thermometer, and stainless steel quick disconnects.

5-Gallon stainless steel kettle. Features two liquid ports (one out and one in for whirlpool functions), a sight glass with thermometer, and additional heat supply via a bucket heater.

Boil: 5-Gallon stainless steel kettle. Features two liquid ports (one ‘out’ and one ‘in’ for whirlpool functionality), a sight glass with thermometer, and supplemental heat source via a bucket heater.

March pump with stainless steel quick disconnects. There is a tee with valves allowing recirculating directly into kettle or through the plate chiller that is attached in series.

Wort Transfer: March pump with stainless steel quick disconnects. There is a tee with valves allowing for recirculation directly into kettle or through the plate chiller that is attached in series.

Plate chiller with appropriate stainless steel quick disconnect fittings.

Chill: Plate chiller with appropriate stainless steel quick disconnect fittings. Polysulfone quick discounts connect the chiller to my cold water source (my kitchen faucet).

All hoses are designed with appropriate food safe thermo-plastics and stainless steel quick disconnects where possible.

All hoses are designed with appropriate food safe thermo-plastics and stainless steel quick disconnects where possible.

Homebrewing Will Not Save You Money…

The Satisfying Rhythm of Yeast Blowoff

The Satisfying Rhythm of Yeast Blowoff

…and that’s okay. Seriously. It is kind of mind boggling the number of times I’ve heard people claim that homebrewing will save you money. I feel like these people are somehow missing the point of the hobby and taking a simplistic look at the actual costs of brewing. It’s one thing to advocate for the hobby (which is why I write this blog), but you need to present realistic expectations for new brewers. If trying to save money is why you’re homebrewing, get out now. There are plenty of other (and better) reasons to homebrew.

Case Study in Brewing Costs

Let’s look at the basic economics of making a 5-gallon extract batch of beer of average gravity and hop levels on the simplest (cheapest, lowest quality) system out there that does not include kegging, temperature control, liquid yeasts and starters, wort cooling devices, and assumes you are using recycled bottles for packaging. I am using an extract beer for the model because typical statements about the cost of homebrewing are targeting new brewers who will likely start with extracts.

The following will make 5 gallons of 1.054 beer at 50 or so IBUs that should ferment out to 5.3% ABV. Let’s call it a simple American Pale Ale (not unlike Sierra Nevada Pale Ale). Prices are quoted from Northern Brewer (one of the cheapest shops around) and do not include tax or shipping. This model makes a lot of assumptions, one of which is that you care about the quality of the beer you’re going to make. You could easily throw table sugar, water, and bread yeast together to make alcohol, which would get you drunk. It also assumes that you want craft beer. You won’t be able to brew a Miller Lite clone cheaper than you can buy it in the store. This recipe would produce something comparable to a lot of craft beers out there, especially if care is taken along the way.

Ingredients:

  • 5 lbs dried extract – $19.99
  • 1 lb steeping grains – $1.75
  • 1 oz high alpha bittering hops – $1.99
  • 2 oz aroma hops – $3.98
  • 1 pack dry yeast – $3.29 (Safeale US-05)

Related Consumables:

  • Energy – $2
  • Water – $1
  • Sanitizer – $2
  • Cleaners – $2
  • Caps – $1
  • Mesh Bag – $0.50

Equipment:

  • Basic Starter Kit including a fermenter – $79.99
  • 5 Gallon Pot – $34.99

Equipment is the hardest cost to quantify due to the mind-boggling options out there and the time period which the costs should be spread over. Because of this, it is often altogether overlooked. What I’ve specified above is the most basic kit you can get. You’ll likely add (a lot) more stuff to this to increase the quality of the beer and decrease the amount of labor involved. For the sake of simplicity we won’t account for this. We’ll divide the equipment cost over 12 batches because you’ll likely either quit the hobby or move on to more advanced brewing requiring more advanced equipment by the time you do 12 or so extract batches. This leads to an equipment cost of $9.58 per batch.

Totals Costs:

  • Ingredients: $31
  • Consumables: $8.50
  • Equipment: $9.58

Total: $49.08

Most brewers yield about 48 – 12oz bottles of beer from a 5-gallon batch. The loss in volume is due to racking, spillage, trub loss, hop absorption, etc. That is a per bottle cost of $1.02 if you’re really pinching pennies and being careful along the way.

A 12-pack of Sierra Nevada (one of the cheapest and best American Pale Ales out there) will run most people in most areas about $11.99 or about $1 per bottle.

If you are trying to clone Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, your homebrew will cost about 2 cents more per bottle than buying the genuine product at the store. This doesn’t take into account the fact that your time is worth something (an extract batch will take 4-6 hours of your time when you take into account packaging) or the fact that you’ll likely want to use liquid yeast and make upgrades over the simplest setup out there.

If I’m hell bent on saving money, how can I?

  • Move to all-grain brewing and buy in bulk. Raw grain is much cheaper than extract.
  • Make sure your all-grain setup is very basic. Try brew-in-a-bag methods. Think hard about each upgrade and decide if it is worth the added cost.
  • Buy your hops in bulk.
  • Harvest and re-use your yeast.
  • Lower your expectations. Brewing great beer requires techniques to appropriately produce and pitch the proper amount of yeast as well as precision in controlling your fermentation temperatures. These both cost money and are not something I would recommend skimping on if you’re trying to brew the best beer you can.

Even doing all of the above, you’re still going to have a tough time making it pencil out when you take into account equipment costs (as well as the desire to brew the best beer possible) and not simply something that will give you a buzz.

At the end of the day, brewing your own beer is awesome. You can create amazing beers that mimic those commercially available or let your imagination run wild and dream up your own creations. I brew for the pure satisfaction of crafting something delicious with my own two hands. Brew for these reasons not because you’re trying to save money.

Are you a brewer saving money making your own beer? I’d love to hear your comments below! Please tell us what you’re doing to make beer cheaper than what can be purchased commercially.